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Woman's Jacket

Designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, French (born Italy), 1890 - 1973

Geography:
Made in Paris, France, Europe

Date:
Winter 1931-1932

Medium:
Wool, seal fur, brass clips

Curatorial Department:
Costume and Textiles

Object Location:

Currently not on view

Accession Number:
1961-91-1

Credit Line:
Gift of Vera White, 1961

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Label:
This jacket has the padded shoulders that Schiaparelli introduced in 1931.

Additional information:
  • PublicationShocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli

    The padded shoulder first made its appearance in Schiaparelli’s collection in August 1931 for winter 1931–32. Although the designer had experimented with one or two padded shoulders in previous seasons, it was her famous “Hotchacha” coat in navy corduroy that was greeted so enthusiastically by American buyers. It started a trend that Hollywood embraced with a vengeance, particularly fashion and costume designer Adrian. British Vogue for September 16, 1931, described this as Schiaparelli’s “wooden soldier silhouette” and noted that “it transforms you completely: wide, padded epaulette shoulders, high, double-breasted closing, very chesty chest, lines carved sharply under the arms to the waist, and a straight column from there down.” The thick fur pelt that forms the collar and lines the front closing of the rough wool jacket is what gives it the distinctive chesty look. Brass curtain-ring clips substitute for buttons, and when unclipped the front opens into fur revers. The jacket was worn with gauntlet gloves. Dilys E. Blum, from Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli (2003), p. 52.